Moots, Hollantide and Ginny the Witch

I am sure many of us may have accidentally slipped up on our Manx at some point or other and made the deadly mistake of saying ‘halloween’ instead of ‘Hop tu Naa’ when spooky season comes round, much to the disgust of your friends (sorry Sam).

But, why is it important to know the difference and who was this Jinny gal we’re all singing about at this time of year? I’m here to tell you everything in this Hop Tu Naa history sesh.

A carved turnip from the Isle of Man, carved for Hop tu Naa in 2016 by Graham Midghall. Culture Vannin

What is Hop tu Naa?

Hop tu Naa is one of the oldest continuous traditions in the Isle of Man. Its origins are unclear (which is super helpful), but we do know that the celebrations that happen at this time of year have for a long time played an important role on the island.

Many moons ago, people went to great efforts to prepare for the incoming winter, which meant harvesting and gathering essential provisions. But, they also celebrated that the harvest had been safely gathered for the winter ahead – in celebrations known as Hop tu Naa.

Some of the customs at this time of year included: setting fires to the gorse to ward off ‘bad’ fairies; having fun, with children making toffee and bobbing apples; predicting the future – young women would bake what was known as ‘dumb cake’ (Soddag Valloo), and after eating it, would go to bed backwards (?) to try and see a sign of their future husband in a dream…; and going around the houses singing rhymes with a turnip lantern, asking for rewards of apples, bonnag, herring, and – if lucky – sweets or the odd penny.

There was also much prophesying, weather prediction and fortune telling.

Hop tu Naa turnip: Jinny the Witch (2016), Culture Vannin

These Hop tu Naa customs, on 31 October, marked the beginning of the Celtic New Year, also known as ‘Hollantide Eve’. The traditional supper on this evening was potatoes, parsnips and fish pounded together with butter (yum).

The following day, 1 November, is known as ‘Hollantide Day’ or ‘All Hallow’s Day’ amongst other things. The Hollantide Fair was held at St John’s until the end of the 1800s, where land and property was let or leased, and rents fell due – an important day for people at the time.

Unfortunately, as time has gone on, not all of these traditions have survived – but many children still go around the houses with a carved turnip lantern singing ‘Jinny the Witch’, or other Manx Hop tu Naa tunes (much to the annoyance of your dog).

Halloween and Hop tu Naa

But why do your mates get so rattled when you say ‘halloween’ instead of ‘Hop tu Naa’?

Firstly, Hop tu Naa is an important and long standing part of Manx culture. The traditions I have already insightfully outlined for you (you’re welcome) are a unique part of the oldest continuously existing tradition on the Isle of Man – and that is a big deal!

Secondly: turnips. Not pumpkins, those are for losers. You have to have a turnip when you go Hop tu Naa-ing, or else it doesn’t count and you won’t get any sweets. The turnip, or ‘moot’ is one of the key features differentiating the Manx tradition from elsewhere.

Hop tu Naa turnip (moot) lanterns by Jane Oates (2019), Culture Vannin

And thirdly, we know how the Manx love a song and a dance and Hop tu Naa is no exception. There is a whole range of popular folk songs with regional differences unique to Hop tu Naa as well as a traditional folk dance still practised across the island today. If you want to know more about this, Culture Vannin has an amazing Hop tu Naa section on its website.

Hop tu Naa dancing and music at an event organised by Maughold Social Club (2016). The instrument is being played by Dr Chloe Woolley. Culture Vannin

So, although Hop tu Naa is the Manx equivalent of halloween, it is an important part of our history and culture to keep alive.

Who was Jinny?

I know what you really want to know is: who was Jinny the Witch who flew over the house to catch a stick to lather the mouse?

Hop tu Naa artwork created by local artist Felicity Wood

The Manx song, ‘Jinny the Witch’ – still sung today – is based on the real life witch trials of a Manx woman named Joney Lowney.

Joney is thought to have lived in Braddan. There have been many theories and myths about who she was over the years: people in the north claimed she emerged from a bog in Ballaugh and she had green teeth; others thought she came from Cheshire; some said she originated from further afield and literally flew to the island with her sisters.

Joney was tried for witchcraft in 1715 and 1716. Her first trial was based on the accusation that she led a ‘cursed and wicked life’, with a man from Santon recalling an encounter with Joney:

“…one stormy evening he had called at a house seeking lodgings…it was Joney’s house. He was taken inside. Shortly after going to bed he saw Joney in the glow of the fire, there was a saagh, or a vessel, on the floor, and it began to move and Joney… ‘went into it’. Soon after, whoosh, both Joney and the saagh flew out of the house leaving an astonished man and Joney’s family behind. She did not return… ‘until the following morning with plenty of fishes’.”

This story might make sense of the lyrics:

Hop tu naa, me mother’s gone away And she won’t be back until the morning.

Hop tu Naa turnip lantern by Pauline Kneen (2019), Culture Vannin

But Joney’s biggest trial was based upon the accusation that she had used magic to shut down the Ballaughton Corn Mill, also known as Bishop’s Mill on Saddle Road, under the ownership of Bishop Wilson.

The story goes that Joney came to the mill, where William Corrin was grinding wheat into flour for distribution to the poor. She criticised the ‘miserable quality of the grain’ and became infuriated.

Joney publicly rebuked Bishop Wilson by telling Corrin that the poor should be served the best. At this time, the poor would often be given the worst bits of the grain, hence the expression, ‘grinding poverty’. Joney proceeded to stop the mill dead, and the machinery could never be made to work again.

Bishop Wilson was of course a judge on Joney’s case (damn!). She was sentenced to 14 days imprisonment, fined £3 and made to stand at the market cross dressed in sackcloth. The trial caused a great stir on the island at the time, which resulted in popular rhymes about the famous Joney Lowney or Jinny the Witch as she became known.

Manx authorities did not have the same appetite for punishing witches as was seen in Scotland and America in the 1700s. It was common during this time for women to be accused of and punished for witchcraft.

But, don’t be afraid of flying witches (or turnips) this spooky season, for Hop tu Naa is traditionally thought to bring good fortune. Phew!